Tim and I went to the 7th annual Al Dahfra Festival ... more informally known as "The Camel Festival". What drew me there was a desire to see the Camel Beauty Contest. Yup, you read that right. Camel Beauty Pageant.
Did you know that camels come in different colors? Some are the light brown. Some are dark brown. Some are black.
Last year there were reportedly 25,000 camels at the Festival. Some are there to be judged as beauties. Some race. Some are sold for the milk they produce (the light camels provide better tasting milk, I'm told). Many are sold or auctioned.
When Tim and I arrived to the Al Dahfra Festival, we really didn't know what to expect. I think we both thought it would be contained in a smaller area.
Nope. It was spread out for kilometers, with people camping out with their families and camels and horses and goats, giving each other ample space.
The Festival grounds go on for miles. (To be geographically specific, I suppose I should say kilometers, not miles.)
As we drove in, we saw some vendors along the left. We saw a sign for the Traditional Souk on the right, and thought would be a good place to start. Emirati women were selling their homemade crafts (I've written and shared photos about their wares in a previous post), as well as dates and honey and incense and perfumes (all very popular products in the Middle East). The one thing we purchased was a book that included dozens of entries and winners of the annual photography contest, documenting the Festival. At some the vendor stalls (the ones that we drove by, and a few in the Traditional Souk) had some pieces that looked a bit like the old-fashioned glittery Christmas tree garland. We couldn't figure out what in the world that was for ... and then we saw the camels ...
Ahhh. So that's what the 'garland' is for. I should have asked what the Arabic and official name was.
This black beauty above was -- if I have her name right -- Montilla. And she is a beauty. And huge! Look at those feet. She was entered into the beauty contest.
As Tim and I walked in, Tim mentioned that it would be great if we could talk to someone about what the contest criteria. What makes a camel award-winning in a beauty contest. Ask and ye shall receive. Right after I took this photo, per the request of these friendly young men ...
Tim and I were the only Caucasians in sight. I was the only woman in sight. Yet it wasn't uncomfortable. But you absolutely notice these things.
Jaber from Saudi Arabia walks up to and introduces himself, and begins to tell us about the contest. Black camels are more prized and sell for a higher price. The judges look at a camel's ears, lips, legs, feet, hump, hair ... there are points awarded for the various categories. Tim and I ended up standing next to Jaber as he explained to a tv camera (in Arabic) what he had just explained to us. Jaber also had some fun, as a crowd (friendly!) gathered, and he asked us what we thought Montilla would go for if she won the beauty contest. We had heard that they could go for millions of dirhams, but we started low, not fully certain what a camel like her would fetch. I said 100,000 dirhams. That got some chuckles from the group. Then Jaber looked at Tim and asked what his guess was. Tim said was it higher or lower. Some of the men standing around us raised their thumb in a "higher" gesture. Tim guessed 500,000 dirhams. More chuckles. Jaber shared that if she wont the contest, the owner could get anywhere from 6 to 20 million dirhams. (Hint = divide that by 3.67)
Wow.
Next thing we knew, Tim and I were invited to tea at their camp. With their enthusiasm and our curiosity, how could we say no?!
So off we went in a 4x4 SUV (white, of course -- the majority color of vehicles in the UAE) to their camp.
We arrived to a beduoin-looking tent. In a C-shape, open on one side. Red wool pattern. Cushions on the floor, majlis-style. Carpets on the ground. Shoes come off before you walk all the way in.
Tim, me, and about 60 Gulf Region men of all ages. (UAE, Oman, Qatar, Bahrain, Saudi)
Arabic coffee served with dates.
Then sweet hot tea.
Young men wanting to practice their English with us. Ali and Sultan.
Jaber encouraging them to do so. (Jaber studied in the States and I think he was visited more U.S. states than I have ... his English was excellent.)
Me with Jaber:
Tim walked to the other end of the tent with Ali to take photos of people. Tim ended up speaking to some of the older gentlemen, with Ali acting as translator.
When Tim asked about the small cane that the men walk around with, Ali's brother ended up giving Tim his. (Always held in hand during the UAE national dance by men, it's tradition stems from use with herding.)
I've mentioned in previous posts that hospitality is a huge thing in the Gulf Region. The "businessman" who owned the camel came to his tent and greeted close associates. In acknowledgement of us as guests, he told Jaber to make sure we were well taken care of. (We were!)
Then, we were invited to stay for lunch. Jaber asked if we would be more comfortable eating by ourselves. We accepted the invitation to eat with everyone else. After washing hands, people wandered into a different tent. Carpeted floor, with lengths of plastic on the carpet. We sat down on the ground, and out came large round metal trays, heaped with rice, a few veggies, and camel meat. Looked and tasted quite like pot roast. Jaber asked if we would like spoons. We opted to try the traditional method, and scooped with bread and with our right hands. It was delicious.
We all headed back in the white SUVs to the stands near the camel pens, to find out what camel won the contest. Tim getting a tutorial on the contest criteria:
The first contestants were the light-colored camels. Great celebration when the winners are announced. And the winning camel is dusted with saffron. Apparently they know the smell, and boy did that camel hold his/her head high and proud when it was dusted on it.
I've emailed Jaber to find out if Montilla won the black camel contest. Tim and I had decided to leave before it got dark. We had to trek around the place and find our rental car ... where we had parked and where we had wound up were not in the same place. Close enough to walk, but I think we only found the car by gut instinct!
Random camel photos from this day. (We both took many photos -- especially Tim -- a bit hard to pick and choose, but here you go!) And yes, camels pose for photos, especially the ones groomed for the beauty contests.
A video. You can hear men singing in the stands, awaiting the announcement of the contest winner. What I wish came out louder on my video was the noise the camels make.
There is so much to share about this day. I think I've given a good overview, but feel that I've really only skimmed the surface.
A day that went from fun to amazing, with the hospitality of our coffee and lunch hosts. Thank you for making it so memorable!
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