It's a wild ride. Literally.

Getting around Nepal is an adventure unto itself.

There is one main highway in Nepal. It's two lanes, and they are narrow lanes. Outside of Kathmandu, the roads wind through hills and mountains, and there are many sheer dropoffs with no guard rails.

And it's a relief when you hit a stretch of highway that is smooth and solid asphalt. A great portion of the highway is pitted with potholes. Big deep potholes. And for that reason, a good portion of the time, cars and buses and trucks and motorcycles go around 40 kmph. You feel like saying "woo-hoo!" when the road and traffic is good enough to hit 60 kmph, maybe even 80 kmph. But that doesn't last long!

And in the city, there are some pitted roads as well, but overall not as bad as the highway.

Vehicles pass each other on these two-lane windy roads. We thought the driving in the UAE was on the risky side. Oh no. The UAE has nothing on Nepal.  In fact, when we got back to the UAE and were in a taxi back to the villa, it was refreshing that the taxi was keeping a car's length behind the next car. In Nepal, that the bumpers of vehicles are actually not touching or hitting each other is remarkable.

There's a system to the risk-filled passing of other vehicles. You just trust, and you pray, that the drivers around you know the signals and are adhering to them.

For example ... people honk a lot, but they are short honks, to let other drivers know where you are.  When you want to pass another vehicle, you honk.  On the windy highway, if it's clear to pass, the vehicle (usually a big truck) will turn on its right turn indicator. If it's not clear, the driver uses the left turn indicator.

The bumpers of trucks actually have words on them, such as "honk to pass" or "wait for turn signal".

Now, "clear to pass" is another term that means something different in Nepal.  Clear to pass means you have a few seconds and the length of a car or two to get around the truck in front of you before another car or truck careening toward you in the other lane might, oh, graze your vehicle.

In the city, at first you feel some relief when you are on a road that has a white line down the middle. But then you realize that that line is simply decorative.

And some "roads" look like they should be for pedestrians only. But nope! This is a road that has traffic going both directions, as well as pedestrians, and shops on the side. (Picture this packed with pedestrians and more cars and rickshaws ... because that's it normally is. This quieter street was a fluke!)

Even this street was quieter than most ...

Besides some crazy and intense traffic and driving, the modes of people transportation can be a bit crazy.  (People on top of the bus is a very common sight. In fact it's rare when there are not people on the top, because the buses are complete packed inside.)  A sight I wish I had been able to get a picture of was a dump truck. Instead of a load of rubble or rocks, it was packed with people standing up ... seems that anything goes, to get from point A to point B!

And colorful. The majority of trucks and buses are painted with bright colors, and are decorated.

Other modes of transportation include ...

Another kind of taxi called a tut-tut.

A type of rickshaw, colorfully decorated.

And these hauled goods, equipment, or people.

Because of the condition of the roads, it can take much longer to get places. For example, it's a mere 185 kilometers between Kathmandu and Chitwan National Park. And it takes 4.5-5 hours by car to get there. (Remember those top speeds of 40 kmph.)  By air, this same distance is covered in 30 minutes max.

Getting to Chitwan, Seta our driver took us. We stopped about half-way, and did some white water rafting (that's another post coming up -- great fun!). We were supposed to fly back from Chitwan, instead of doing the 4.5 hour drive on an uncomfortable road. But ... the wrong tickets were booked, there were no seats available, and we ended up taking a taxi back to Kathmandu. About halfway through the 4.5 hour drive, I really needed to stop for a comfort break. But no way did I want us to pull over (there are a variety of toilets along the way) and lose our place in line on the road so to speak (our driver worked hard to pass and get in front of lumbering trucks and buses). Instead I focused on praying a lot when our (very good) driver passed vehicles with inches to spare or when our itty bitty taxi was sandwiched between buses and trucks with mere inches to spare, holding on to Tim's headrest in front me, and bracing my body against pothole after pothole.

Comparing notes later, all three of us had been praying to be out of the winding road and mountains before dark descended along with us, and we did so, with thanks.

This is the Nepal highway:

A beautiful view from the road(same river as the one we rafted on):

A few times we got a glimpse of snow covered Himalayan peaks. What we didn't manage were any good photos of them to share here, unfortunately. 

Upon our return to the hotel (another post to come ... we highly recommend the place, and I'll share photos in an upcoming post), I beelined for the lobby restroom, after placing my order for a whisky :-)  Then, detox from Mr. Toad's Wild Ride, thanking God for arriving unscathed.

Wishing everyone in the U.S. and from the U.S. a Happy Thanksgiving tomorrow! (And yup, managing to have some turkey myself -- some local restaurants are serving up Thanksgiving feasts and some friends and I are partaking.)

Rafting in Nepal

Part of our adventure in Nepal included two and a half hours of white water rafting on the Trisuli River (or Trishuli, depending on what map and website you are looking at).  Neither, Tim, Hannah or myself had ever been rafting before. Had no idea what to really expect.

And oh it was fun!

On our way from Kathmandu to Chitwan National Park, we made a stop at the Royal Beach Camp (http://www.royalbeachnepal.com/).  I recommend them highly.

Our first views of the river, from the Royal Beach Camp ("RBC"):

After some lunch and a warm welcome by the lead guide, we were suited up with life vests and safety helmuts.

Oh, the fashion statements ;-)

I did feel well protected though!

Our fun and excellent lead guide:

We received instructions, complete with demonstrations, on safety. How to sit on the raft, directions when rafting (all forward, left forward, right forward, paddle, stop, etc.).  And what to do if you fall in the water. There were two safety kayakers accompanying the raft; this was one of a few maneuvers we were instructed on, should one of us end up in the water.

Our safety guys, who were so good at kayaking, and you could tell they were having a blast on the rapids. You could also tell that they were keeping an eye on the raft in case they were needed. At times there were small rapids closer to shore, and while the raft was in a calm spot, they would test their own skills. I was impressed!

I'm not sure if I was ever truly situating my feet right, in anchoring them under the rubber seats, but I know that I met one of my two goals: stay in the raft, don't fall out of the raft and into the water.  My other more goal was to have fun, and that goal was completely met as well.

When you think rubber raft, you think it should have some cushion to it ... nope! This thing was sturdy.  You sit on the side of the raft, not on the rows in the middle.

There were seven of us in the raft.  The three of us (me, Tim, Hannah), three staff and our lead guide (who took the photo -- we had my camera in a bag, and this photo was taken in between a couple of rapids).

Two of the RBC staff who were in the raft with us.

After our first rapid, we then knew what to expect. What going on (through?) a rapid felt like, keeping your balance, staying in the raft and still managing to paddle, the feel of the cold water coming up and over you and the raft. After the first rapid, we eagerly anticipated the next rapids, all with interesting names such as Butterfly, Electricity, and Surprise.

Hannah and Tim after going through one of the rapids and a wave washing over their left side of the raft:

The little store at the end our rafting adventure, where we were able to change into dry clothes and get a snack.  For Hannah and I, changing meant going to the lower level. Picture dirt stairs and dirt floor. And an adjacent small toilet room with the ever common squatty potty. A group of 4 men temporarily moved into another room so that Hannah and I could change. They then reclaimed their room and recommenced their card game.  (I actually don't know where Tim went to change.)

Now I need to find places at home to raft!

Nepalese Crafts

In our Nepal travels, we were able to observe some craftsmanship in action.

In Kathmandu, and specifically at Swayambhu (or, the Monkey Temple), there were a couple of people creating designs on flat pieces of stone.  Their designs varied from dragons, to Chinese zodiac calendars (year of the ox, rat, rabbit, etc.), to smiling suns.

I purchased one of a smiling sun, from the young woman doing carving.

One of our stops on our last day in Nepal was at a carpet weaving co-op. The artisans are Tibetan refugees, and the proceeds of sales support the artists themselves.

I was surprised and impressed with just how fast their hands go on these looms, and I cannot fathom how it works to make these intricate patterns ...

In one of the Durbar Squares (I really should have kept little handwritten notes as we visited these areas, to keep it all straight), this gentleman was making pottery ...

Carved painted wooden masks were abundant ...

As were marionette-type puppets ...

In Patan's Durbar Square, Hannah and I had the chance to peruse tables of Nepalese crafts and antiques (and buy gifts for ourselves and for others), while Tim took advantage of more great photo opportunities.

Pashminas. This photo is from a shop in a village outside of Kathmandu. Within Kathmandu, pashmina stores were larger and stocked with a wide variety of colors and patterns and qualities.

Various items, many of which are antique (or at least had some age to them). This vendor was located at the Monkey Temple.

And there were several schools and vendors selling Thangka (or Thanka) paintings. They are exquisitely detailed. If you google Thangka paintings (worth a quick look), and go for the "images" link, you'll see a terrific representation of a variety of the art.  They involve rich colors, actual gold paint, and images have different meanings. 

The site http://www.buddhanet.net/thangkas.htm has some detail about the paintings (what, how, why), including the following: "Thangkas are intended to serve as a record of, and guide for contemplative experience." 

Well, the blog website is not cooperating with adding more photos at this time, so I'll stop here about crafts :-)

Ah, but who's counting?

Not to interrupt the flow of posts about our trip to Nepal, but coming home to California is on my mind, as it's not too far away.

Everyone I know is remarking on how time flies, and how surprised they are that it's already November 17th. Even my taxi driver yesterday remarked that it was already November 16th and how fast time flies.

I have some vacation time to burn before I complete my 15-month contract on December 31st. Tim is coming out for the last two weeks, and we'll venture to the large dunes of Liwa (in time to celebrate our 26th wedding anniversary), and to the country of Jordan (in time for Christmas at Petra).

Between a week in D.C. at the beginning of December for a professional organization Board meeting, and using up some vacation time later in the month -- after today I have a whopping 16 working days left. And just a total of 44 calendar days, before flying home for good.

(And "yay!" that we get to fly home business class!!)

This has been a great experience, and there are colleagues and as well as new friends whom I will genuinely miss, but Tim and I both agree, "it's time". Time to be back home in California.

For now, I focus on each day and what new adventures present themselves :-)

People of Nepal

Tim, Hannah and I were able to capture a variety of photos of people in Nepal.

I think that candids nicely capture the essence of a country, so I share them with you.

Storekeepers ...  

An older Nepalese woman, watching the tourists go by.

An older woman, and perhaps her granddaughter. They were begging, even though there were signs at this temple to not support beggars. After she gave me a marigold (one of the flowers that you see frequently at Buddhist temples), the words out of her mouth were "Pay. Now." I returned the flower, as tourists are discouraged from encouraging the begging by giving them any money. People are encouraged to contribute to the temples or monks, who will distribute to the community.

Separating chaff from the wheat.

Nepalese men at the entrance to a temple. The queue in the background is to buy tickets to the entrance. Proceeds go toward the temple sites and town squares' upkeep. 

One of the city squares, replete with a variety of temples.

Military guard at one of the temple sites. (Only place I recall seeing military at a temple, was this one. I'm wracking my brain to remember which one this was ... )

Our day trek guide, Kamal, when we walked two hours each way to a monastery (another post to come!). Lovely young man who is in college, and earns his wages as a guide.

Hannah, Hari (our Chitwan National Park and village tour guide), a young man assisting Hari (we called him Hari 2, because not one of us ever accurately heard his name), and Tim.

Our canoe oarsman, who got us across the river from Into the Wild Eco Resort to Chitwan National Park.

A man making a fishing net.

Our guide (in white) explaining statuary and carvings at a temple square.

Brave? Trusting? Fearless? Crazy?

Street vendor of snacks in a small village near Chitwan National Park.

Similar to photos we have from Hanoi.
Glad it's not my job to keep straight which wires go to what.

Rickshaw driver.

This gentleman tried to convince us to buy this instrument. 

Cotton candy vendor. Neon pink cotton candy. (This is at dusk, and the color was like a beacon it was so bright.)

Fisherman and his wife in a canoe made from one tree.

These women are digging up/out snails from the river.

Another couple fishing.

These Nepalese villages go into the park (they are not supposed to, but it's a big park) for firewood. They swim across the river, holding on to the bundles of wood.

This older woman is spinning wool.

An older and younger Buddhist monk, at Boudhanath,the largest stupa in Kathmandu.